TEMPO.CO, Jakarta - On my last night in Rio de Janeiro, with all my official agendas over, I deliberately joined some friends who had chosen to immerse themselves in samba. I felt it would add a touch of excitement to my few days in the city—if not to Brazil in general.
I actually didn’t have much experience before that ending, because I wasn’t really a tourist. In the two days since landing at Galeão-Antonio Carlos Jobim International Airport on November 2, while waiting for the event I was to attend to get underway, I happened to have a short time—a total of just a few hours—for a city tour and excursions to accessible tourist attractions.
Escada Selaron, steps decorated with various types of tiles created by Chilean artists--one of the tourist attractions in Rio de Janeiro--visited on November 4, 2025. TEMPO/Purwanto Setiadi
Therefore, enjoying live samba in the region where it was born in the late 19th and early 20th centuries–Rio de Janeiro being one of them–can be a kind of cherry on top, like the frosting on top of an ice cream cone, that completes the look no matter what the taste.
At first, I was a bit hesitant when I learned that the live Brazilian music venue was about 20 kilometers from our hotel. Besides having to pack, my return flight—with a layover in Dubai—was scheduled to depart at 3:45 a.m. I worried about staying awake until my transfer to the airport. And I certainly couldn’t afford to spend too much time relaxing at the venue.
Luckily, I could still hear the optimistic voice in my head. So, I decided to go.
Espaço Cultural Paulão Sete Cordas, the live music venue, is located at Rua do Lavradio 11 Lapa. It’s a two-story bar on a small block in the Centro district, the historic downtown area—the old town, to be exact—which is a popular destination for tourists looking for nightlife. Live music is performed on the second floor.
“They said there wasn’t a proper food menu there,” one of my friends quipped, sounding almost warningly, “Hopefully light bites will be enough.”
Indeed, some in our group were hoping to have dinner there, too. It was unfortunate they wouldn’t find what they were hoping for. But I didn’t see that as a problem. In my six days in this cool, breezy, and occasionally rainy city, I had only deliberately eaten dinner once—at a formal reception I had to attend at the hotel restaurant.
The bar wasn’t crowded when we arrived—taking an Uber after work on a Friday night. But the musicians were already pulsing the rhythms and tunes of what has historically been one of Brazil’s most significant cultural phenomena. The performing group included surdo (drum) and caixa (stringed drum) players, a guitarist, and a cavaquinho (ukulele-like instrument) player. The star was the singer, whose photo was featured on a flyer shared in a WhatsApp group before we left.
The set of songs performed that night was lengthy, perhaps extended versions of their original forms. The singer, André Zão, enthusiastically communicated as best he could in Portuguese, explaining the background of each song—each telling a story and celebrating the life of the Black culture, descended from slaves brought from Africa by the Portuguese colonialists, woven with local elements. The lyrics were formatted in verse, rich with narrative and description, and a chorus.
Andre Zao tells a story through lyrics and samba rhythms at a location in Centro, Rio de Janeiro, on November 7, 2025. TEMPO/Purwanto Setiadi
As music that incorporates elements from various cultures, samba is characterized by dynamic rhythms, beats influenced by African percussion, and an energetic ‘pull’ that draws listeners to the floor and dance. Imagine carnival, pounding percussion, and infectious energy.
That’s what happened a few moments into André’s performance. As if electrified, some guests jumped from their seats and began to dance in the remaining space on the second floor—flanked by rows of tables—where they could still do so. Others enlivened the party by clapping along, while cold beer, food, and light bites seemingly flowed nonstop.
Rio’s pulse is palpable, something I experienced for a few hours during a brief city tour. With a population of around six million and one of the most visited cities in the Southern Hemisphere, the city is vibrant. The magnificent, eye-popping mountains surrounding it and the long, sparkling coastline bordering the Atlantic Ocean and Guanabara Bay can be seen as vital sources of energy for its daily life and culture.
My impression from the city tour was that Rio seemed to be a melting pot of beach traditions, street food, and a bustling social atmosphere. This was felt on the streets, at tourist attractions, and in the markets. Rio residents (called cariocas) enjoyed gathering on the beach, chatting or playing volleyball, and practicing capoeira; or sipping caipirinhas, a typical Brazilian cocktail—in short, enjoying the sunshine. In between, samba provided the rhythm.
As a narrator, André became even more excited when he learned that the audience before him came from various countries. “It’s really colorful tonight. I’m going to sing a special song,” he announced.
I’m certain, after the end of the song entitled Retrato Cantado de Um Amor with its inviting chorus, the atmosphere would be even livelier, the hours would definitely feel like they’ve stretched.
Had it not been for the pressing time limit, I would have stayed until the end of this show, a showcase of Brazilian cultural expression, that night—or perhaps extended my time to explore Rio. After about an hour, worried about getting too late, I left the bar at the first opportunity: along with a friend, I took an Uber ride with a fellow hotel guest who needed to return to pack her things.
Purwanto Setiadi is former Tempo journalist and co-founder of CommsLab, a communication ecosystem strategist on sustainable future.
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